Lesbos

Just a hop away from the Turkish coast in the north-eastern Aegean, Lesvos, or Lesbos, or Mytiline, is bafflingly overlooked by tourists given its wealth of beauties and huge size – 7th largest in the Mediterranean and a population of over  114,000.  Perhaps having three names  means that no one really knows what or where it is? Lesvos is the official name in Greek – it is better known as Lesbos in English, but also called after its main town, Mytilene. The islanders are the last descendants of  the Aeolians –  one of the oldest ancient Greek tribes,  supported themselves in dignity and comfort through trade and agriculture,  and are a world unto themselves. 

Lesbos – so many different island in one –  consists of a central massif with thick forests  from which 3 different area protrude, nature, geology,  thermal springs, ancient  temples, petrified forest, fossils, flamingos, flora and fauna,  mountain villages, waterfalls, woodwork, dances, horses, music, handicrafts, ceramics,  olive oil, ouzo making,  falconry,  trekking, sea excursions, underwater geo-park, Sappho,  churches, monasteries, ancient Greece, Byzantine, Crusader, Ottoman

BEST FOR 

An extraordinary amount of unusual places of interest, activities, sights and history. 

WORST FOR 

Sprawling main town with traffic and a confusing one-way system 

Sat nav not helpful! 

WOULD SUIT 

Historians, classicists, birdwatchers, nature lovers, explorers, geologists, palaeontologists, hikers, solo or gay travellers and spa lovers. 

WOULD NOT SUIT 

those not wanting to drive anywhere, those wanting a bijou, curated white- washed island with Ibiza sunset vibe and Louis Vuitton. 

DON’T MISS 

This is a small personal selection and the tip of the iceberg. 

The neo-classical mansion of Odysseus Elytis- along with Cavafis, probably most famous poet in Greece. Open by private arrangement through Five Star Greece 

Thermal springs of Thermi with the old Ottoman bath and the modern spa. 

Polichnitos baths – ottoman baths. They are abandoned but you can use them – The thermal springs of Eftalou 

Mountain villages – the prettiest is Agiassos village with the magnificent church of Panaghia, a souk-like village centre, well known for its handicrafts; get a backgammon board engraved with your initials and buy a unique ceramic figure of a fisherman or hunter or old gentleman sitting in a café 

Nyfida Beach,
Vrisa Beach,
Aghios Fokas – a cute marina where you can eat a hearty lobster macaroni and can wander across a field with a lone ancient Greek column from the temple of Dionysios. 

The huge waterfront Kastro ( castle) of Mytilene town with the ottoman mosque and hammam nearby 

The Temple of Mesa, inexplicably unvisited – like a miniature Delphi. 

The Roman Aquaduct. 

Taxiarches Church and the best “loukoumades “ or honey fritters on the island. 

Kapi Lake 

Picturesque Skala Sikaminias port and the chapel of the Mermaid Virgin 

Molivos – a very picturesque harbour and village with ottoman features, climbing steeply up to the medieval castle of Gattilusi – café at the top and a pretty footpath down. 

Flamingos and bird hides in the lagoon-like Gulf of Kalloni. 

Plomari town – the home of ouzo and a Ouzo factory to visit. 

Monastery of Leimonas in Dafia – very unfriendly to women but some fine byzantine chapels. 

The sensational Pterounta waterfalls on Vthylimnos. Take hiking shoes. 

Petra beach and village with an Ottoman mansion and a rocky outcrop with a church on top and a chapel at its feet with byzantine frescoes. 

The beautiful and wild Monastery of Ipsilos – 360 degree views and a lonely monk will want a selfie with you. 

The unique Petrified Forest- hiking circuit – take hat, water , don’t go at height of day, open till 4, and good shoes.
Museum of Natural History – open till 5pm, a true gem. 

Sighri port 

Museum of Olive Oil in Gerra.