Sifnos

Still with some virgin corners and aspects of old island life for seekers of peace and quiet, combined with high standards of hospitality for cosmopolitan visitors, Sifnos is probably the most popular of the Western Cyclades.

The urban Greek has two questions upon arrival at a new place. Where do you get honey from? Where do you swim? Informed, he now has a claim to be almost a local.  Whatever nationality, you will arrive by sea. Taxis are lined up at the bustling port of Kamares to whisk you off to your point of destination. Villages with accommodation lie in the foothills surrounded by olive groves. Oleander and wild fig grow in clusters in the ravines, and almond and cherry trees thrive – especially in the high valleys. Across the island you see dove-cotes, looking like little castles, where pigeons used to be fattened for the cooking pot. Windmills and half-ruined watchtowers dot the island’s gentle contours. Sifnos has soft white light, not the blinding white dazzle of  Santorini, Mykonos, or Paros.

The best Greek chefs used to come from Sifnos, and Nikos Tselemended was the earliest celebrity chef in Greece- and a true Sifnaian.   this might explain why an 18th century physician and botanist to the King of France was able to observe the longevity of these islanders – he found men as old as 120. In fact, having too many old  folk  become a burden in the 19th century as a consequence of the older custom of pushing  the grannies off the cliffs became taboo. At least according to Theodore Bent, the 19th century ethnologist.

BEST FOR

Those who look for quality of life. The island is well cared for, tended and spotless. It is full of evidence of historical activities – the ancient gold and silver mines that made the island so rich that it even had a treasury at Delphi from 535 BC, as well as political cultural and gastronomical activities, towers for smoke-signal warnings of approaching pirates, double-headed eagle inscriptions, mansions of old families. And long sandy beaches, and swimming from smooth rocks. Try Chrissopigi, Plati Yialos, Faros & Vathi.

WORST FOR

Those who stick to their own national food and diets.

WOULD SUIT

Small groups of friends who want a glorious mix of summer in Greece by the water’s edge, with a choice of swimming destinations, spots for sundowners, magnificent photo-opportunities and dancing under the stars.

Foodies- Sifnos has a venerable culinary tradition and priodes itself on the quality of its food.

WOULD NOT SUIT

Those who are a bit infirm and shaky on their pins who would find it painful to explore the medieval Kastro.

DON’T MISS

Lunch at Chryssopighi  beach – great tavernas with fabululous views of the headland opposite.

Watching an expert potter fashion the earthenware casserole that will be a mainstay in your kitchen for years.

The evening scene in Kastro

Dinner down in some of the great  waterfront restaurants of Plati Gialos, such as Misso-Misso and Omega 3.

HIGH SEASON

The usual summer crowds but they do seem to disperse welll on Sifnos.

LOW SEASON

Time to walk and explore in balmy days with hardly anyone else to spoil your solitude. Try the walk to Pano Petali for panoramas, old mansions and whitewashed churches in the fields. Or to the exquisite little blue-domed chapel of Panayia Poulati, above crystalline waters to dive into. This is the time to purchase the new honey, almonds and olives, and drink the new wine.