Koufonisia and the Lesser Cyclades
Koufonisia is really the playground of the islands; no need for a car, you can walk from one end to the other in 40 minutes easily, and if you take the coastal path, you can stop and swim in a different little beach every 50 metres, and have a drink, a fresh fish or a salad in a little taverna or cute beach shack every 100 metres. So really, I told you a big lie there; it takes all day to get from one end to the other.
My big problem here is that everyone thinks I photoshop the colours. I don’t. That is the colour of the water.
There was a big wedding here last year, with several thousand tonnes of shipowners floating off Finikas beach, 50 kilos of lobsters, 20 kilos of sea urchin salad and I have to say if I were to get married again, to a shipowner this time, that is how I would do it too – full moon over Amorgos and the whole island en fete.
The least I could do was test the Lobster Macaroni or astakomakaronada in Leftheris’ taverna, and you know how diligent I am, so I am glad to report that it is excellent. Porri Beach taverna has a cool vibe and full moon parties, while Captain Nikola, Remezzo and Chondros Cavos have excellent fish – they have their own fishing boats so you get the catch of the day.
Koufonissia is a metropolitan hive of activity compared to Schinoussa which lies just a mile away. If you are not a shipowner with your own boat, Captain Prassinos will take you on a day trip across. Schinoussa has a little port, but it consists of a jetty, a sandy beach, two tavernas, and Georgos who drives up with a screech of hot rubber tyres in his minivan to sell tickets for the Skopelitis ferry that chugs along between these small islands. The Skopelitis is a little capricious, and arrives and leaves with a certain nonchalance with regard to the published timetable; early in low season, late in high season. To compensate, they are philosophical if you haven’t had time to buy a ticket and have to sprint to leap on board as the bridge is raised for departure.
Three large shipping families have the island quietly and benevolently under control, so there is an excellent taverna in the village up on the hill, and Schinoussa’s pristine nature and sleepy outlook are safe for the time being.
There are very few villas on these islands, so call us in good time if you want a place in the playground.
Or you can marry a shipowner of course. We have an excellent wedding planning service.