Hydra

Arriving by ship from Athens, Hydra is a rocky world away, suddenly revealed from behind its guardian cliffs – a picturesque harbour-front town rising theatrically out of the sea. To the right and left are imposing mansions built on 19th century shipping fortunes. Behind them, like a wreath around the hill of Kiafa, sit the houses of the bourgeoisie. Along the quay are the colourful shops of the market-place. Narrow geranium-filled alleyways and steep staircases lead from one quarter to another and on to the fields and small settlements beyond. Greece’s only car-free island, Hydra is an island for slow rambles into the craggy interior and puttering along the rocky shores in boats.

The setting of the 1950s film ‘Boy on a Dolphin’ with Sophia Loren, Hydra was rapidly discovered by an international circle of writers, musicians, and painters who moved in and are still a part of the island’s cosmopolitan social fabric. The American painters Timothy Hennessy and Brice Marden have lived and created here for over 50 years and Leonard Cohen’s son, Adam, continues to come and go from his father’s sea-captain’s house. Every famous visitor has sat in The Pirate Bar on the waterfront, from Henry Miller to Diana, Princess of Wales. These days, you’re likely to spot Kate Moss, Maria Cornejo, Juergen Teller and Sadie Coles among the stylish patrons. Greek fine arts students take up summer residence in a splendid stone mansion, and the international art world congregates on Hydra in June for thought-provoking exhibitions in the old slaughterhouse and high school, thanks in large part to Dakis Ioannou, one of Greece’s most voracious collectors of contemporary art. Ioannou’s massive yacht, Guilty, emblazoned in garish patterns by Jeff Koons, often looms into view while you’re drinking iced frappé on the waterfront.

Hydra’s wide, paved harbour remains the focus of all activity with art galleries, chic  boutiques, unique jewellery shops and countless bars and tavernas filling every nook and cranny. Yachts are bumper to bumper along the boardwalk, tanned sailors surveying the scene from their decks. On summer weekends, one of the most fashionable voltas (evening strolls) in Greece unfolds. Fishing boats, the caique Eleni (star of the 1964 movie, ‘Zorba the Greek’) and ferry boats unload all the necessities of life before an audience of resigned donkeys and ever hopeful cats. It has scarcely changed in years, is utterly charming, perfectly genuine, and yet it exists purely for tourists, the island’s only industry.

Seriously fashionable Athenian money is sunk in weekend homes here, but discreetly. Richard Branson tried to build a resort on Hydra once, but the old money residents rebuffed such ostentation. Still a bohemian free spirit at heart, Hydra is a perfect little microcosm of high aesthetics and simple pleasures.

BEST FOR

No-car policy. Vehicles are replaced by water taxis, donkeys, and mules which makes the atmosphere wonderfully peaceful, clear and mellow. Beautiful (if hot) climbs and coastal walks through rockscapes and plateaux to chapels, monasteries, and tiny, pebbly coves such as Vlychos, with two delightful tavernas on the little quayside (Marina’s gets our vote). Site-specific art shows in unlikely locales. People-watching on the waterfront. Dive bombing off rocks.

WORST FOR

The rocky, treeless island can roast in the summer sun. Not much in the way of beaches. The town practically sinks under the weight of tourists and day-trippers in high summer. Escape them by taking your own boat or water taxi to more tranquil bays or wandering into the thyme- and sage-scented hills.

WOULD SUIT

Elegant bohemians wanting to eat and drink well, groups wanting a lively but laidback town, teenagers who can walk everywhere at night or be safely transported by water taxi, donkey-mad children, ramblers, snorkellers and spearfishermen, curators, collectors and artists who schmooze at the contemporary art shows, and people who like speedboats.

WOULD NOT SUIT

Beach babies and those wanting to lie in hammocks under shady trees – Hydra’s few beaches are not great and get very crowded, though the water is incredibly clear and blue. Toddlers — those steep lanes are murder with a buggy and there are no sandy shallows for paddling.

DON’T MISS

That evening stroll when the townsfolk and yachters promenade along the waterfront. A chilled sunset martini at Hydronetta Bar, wedged into the cliffs. Just around the headland is the appropriately named Sunset restaurant (the dismantled cannons on the shore are aimed at the purple shoreline). A poolside dinner at the Bratsera hotel, a beautifully converted old sponge factory that belonged to the family of the chic and beautiful owner, Christina Nevrou. Kodylenia fish taverna, with a dreamy terrace overlooking the fishing port of Kaminia, where the sea-urchin salad and pickled sea samphire (kritamo) are musts. Authentic Italian Neapolitan pizza and fresh pasta at intimate, romantic Il Casta, A movie under the stars at Gardenia outdoor cinema. browse through the Historical Museum to understand the island’s illustrious past. A guided tour of the late Hydriot painter Panagiotis Tetsis’ marvellous home and studio. Tours can be arranged by the fascinating Lazaros Koundouriotis Mansion, a trove of folk costumes, antiques, historical memorabilia and paintings that is worth visiting for the architecture alone.

ACTIVITIES

Wining and dining, shopping, boating activities and watersports at Mandraki and Mikro Kamini. Further afield are the small beaches of Bitsi (good spearfishing), Kaoumithi (thick sand, pine trees), and Aghios Nikolaos, where many yachts anchor for good reason — there’s a small canteen for refreshments and wonderful snorkelling in the glassy bay. Stroll uphill to Hydra School Projects for intriguing exhibitions by Greek and international artists in the decrepit but evocative classrooms of the town’s high school. Wander along the coast to the old slaughterhouse, where art superstars such as Matthew Barney, Maurizio Catalan, and Kiki Smith create site-specific shows (June-October). Hike up to Profitis Ilias monastery for astounding vistas and a warm welcome by the resident monks (wear proper walking shoes and take water). Harriet Jarman will take you there – and everywhere – on horseback if you’re not much of a walker. A Brit brought up on Hydra, she’s great with kids. Hydra makes an excellent base for sightseeing forays to the Peloponnese (ancient Mycenae and Epidaurus and the neoclassical town of Nafplion are a water taxi and easy car trip away) or island-hopping in the Saronic Gulf (elegant Spetses and low-key Poros are just a water taxi hop).

HIGH SEASON

A flood of visitors, so you need to be able to retreat to a secluded hideaway. The three-day Miaoulia event in June features torch races, boat races, swimming contests, fireworks and dancing, plus the burning of a Turkish flagship effigy – all commemorating Hydriot Admiral Miaoulis and his fighters in the sea battles for Greek Independence in 1821. The DESTE Slaughterhouse opening in mid-June brings museum directors, curators, art collectors and their entourages

LOW SEASON

Mild and dry, the island stays (mostly) open and welcoming all year round. North winds clear the sea mist and ensure bright and clean horizons. The Easter experience in Kaminia is unforgettable. On Good Friday, the procession of the epitaph enters the sea, the epitaph is held aloft in the shallow water, and the priest prays for local seamen who are at sea. On Easter Day, the islanders burn an effigy of Judas amid gunshots and fire crackers before settling into the traditional spit-roast lamb.