Paxos

Paxos is the smallest of the Eptanisa or Ionian islands. Its name is actually a plural name in Greek, as Paxos is packaged together with its little sister, Antipaxos, together known as the Paxoi in Greek, the Paxoses…

Historically these islands have formed a bridge between Greece and Europe since their occupation by the Venetians for 400  years, followed by  Napoleon, the Russians and then 50 years as part of the British Empire, and finally a short life as an independent republic, before joining Greece.

Paxos is only 10km long and 4km across at its widest point, has no airport, can only be reached by ferry boat, water taxi or hydrofoil and is therefore un-spoilt. And the inhabitants take one look across the sea at Corfu, and agree that this is a very good thing. The pace of life is unhurried and relaxing, with genuine friendly Greek hospitality at its best. A charming landscape of ancient olive groves, punctuated by thick groves of dark cypresses that seem to paint the sky an even brighter blue. The olives are a legacy of the Venetians and cover about 80 per cent of the island. Also a legacy are the dry-stone-walled terraces, abandoned olive presses and old farmhouses that dot the hills. White limestone cliffs rear up above white sand beaches lapped by startling, milky-blue water and deep grottoes offer electric blue water to rival Capri.

Paxos has three main towns, all located at natural anchorages.

Gaïos is the island’s attractive capital, with a fjord-like setting, a Venetian harbour, a ruined fortress and red-tiled buildings of pink, cream and yellow stucco. Guarding the mouth of the natural harbour of Gaïos are two islands – the more distant island, with a lighthouse and pilgrimage church is that of the monastery of Panagia. Pilgrims flock here on the Virgin’s Day, August 15, and in the evening return to shore and dance through the night in the streets of Gaïos. Gaïos Square is a very good place to sit at a cafe bar, soak up the atmosphere and watch the coming and going of a great variety of boats and travelers.

Lakka, at the northern tip of the island is Paxos’ second port. It is set in a gorgeous horseshoe-shaped bay and flanked by high ground covered in olive and cypress trees. The bay, which is almost completely sheltered from the open sea, is excellent for swimming, water sports and for mooring boats.

Loggos is the smallest of the three main villages. It is a very quiet fishing village with a picturesque harbour fronted by tavernas and small bars. It’s a great place to peacefully laze by day, or drink and dine by night. Inland villages like Bogdanatika and Magazia have a Venetian air and traditional tavernas.

BEST FOR

The best preserved and most picturesque villages in the Ionian islands, the white cliffs of the west coast facing Italy, some very hip but laid-back bars and tavernas, intimate atmosphere, wonderful swimming in calm, crystal waters off small coves.

Boating – Paxos is full of small boats for hire, swimming

WORST FOR

Getting to – Hydrofoil situation is improving, but water taxis are the most convenient way to get across from and to Corfu – need booking in advance as there aren’t enough of them.  Limited number of beaches you can drive to – and they are pebbled rather than sandy. You really need to hire a small boat or have accessorised your villa with a skippered yacht. It is a small island – 8 x 3 kilometres, so hard to get away from others in high season.

Swarms of yachts crowd the coast from June through to early October.

WOULD SUIT

Families and couples will love Paxos. Also those souls who are bien dans leurs peaux,  – the Paxos summer community is international, cultured and very laid back, showing off is not appreciated. They may live in palazzi and Schlosses at home, but here they are escaping it all. Would also suit those who have a boat – it’s a sensational coastline to explore with grottoes and cliffs and beaches.

WOULD NOT SUIT

Show-offs; no one is looking at you! Those wanting big spaces and plenty to explore – you can drive from the top of the island to the bottom in half an hour. Those wanting serviced sandy beaches with organised watersports. Those wanting smart shopping and serious restaurants. For all the above in an Ionian island setting, head north to Corfu.

The island is run as a tourist business, so not for those wanting to discover off the beaten track Greece, but  it is run with charm and an eye for quality.

DON’T MISS

A day trip to Antipaxos by boat to experience the brilliant blue waters lapping the white sand beaches.

Swim at cool Monodendri beach with its two beach bars and tavernas. Day trips to the cliffs and blue grottoes of the west coast, and the glorious sandy beaches of tiny Antipaxos just opposite. Boats run frequently from Gaïos, Lakka and Loggos during the summer. A sunset drink at Eremites bar on the western cliff tops – a must. Dinner in Loggos or  in Gaios and then a drink at the tiny hip waterfront bars.

ACTIVITIES

Scuba diving from Lakka, kayaking on Monodendri beach, windsurfing in Lakka, small boat hire, day trips to Parga on the mainland, yoga, guided walks, beauty treatments, seal watching, and day trip to Corfu Town  by water taxi.

HIGH SEASON

The island gets full, Paxos is very popular with Italians and Greeks, and don’t even think of casually sailing into harbour in the evening and finding mooring.

LOW SEASON

Total bliss. European summer residents linger on well into September and come early in June, tending to flee the crowds in August. There is enough life therefore even off season. If you like walking there are many tracks through the olive groves which are a good place to stop and reflect on the beauty of Paxos with the sun filtering through the olive and cypresses trees in all their tranquility. There are organized walks around the island, a good way to explore this unforgettable emerald island.